Marvel-Works

A patio is only as good as the base under it.

Stamped, stained, or broom-finished — every slab we pour starts with the prep that keeps concrete from cracking on Houston clay.

Get a free on-site estimate

A concrete patio looks like a simple thing to build, which is exactly why so many of them crack. The finish you see — the broom texture, the stamp, the stain — is the last and easiest part. The part that decides whether the slab is still flat in ten years is the part you’ll never see: the compacted base, the reinforcement, the joints, and the slope.

Houston’s expansive clay makes that prep non-negotiable. The soil swells when it’s wet and shrinks when it’s dry, and a slab poured on unprepared ground rides that movement until it splits. We build the base first, reinforce the slab, cut the joints where the concrete should crack, and pour a fall so water sheds. That’s the difference between a patio and a future repair.

Prefer pavers to a poured slab? We build those too. We hold a Keystone hardscape diploma and are trained in their paver and segmental retaining-wall systems, so an interlocking paver patio or a Keystone retaining wall goes in to the manufacturer’s spec — on the same base prep that keeps any hardscape from moving on Houston clay.

What goes into a concrete patio

Every line below shows up as a discrete item in your scope and quote — including the prep most low bids quietly leave out.

Standard patio slabs
broom-finished for grip, the workhorse outdoor surface
Stamped concrete
textured and colored to imitate stone, brick, or wood plank
Stained concrete
acid or water-based stain for mottled, variegated color
Exposed aggregate
washed finish that exposes the stone for texture and slip resistance
Compacted sub-base
the prep that decides whether the slab cracks — never skipped
Reinforcement
steel mesh, rebar, or fiber sized to the slab and its use
Control & expansion joints
so the slab cracks where planned, not at random
Drainage slope
a deliberate fall away from the house so water sheds, not ponds

Planning a cover or an outdoor kitchen over the slab? We size the thickness and footings for it up front — retrofitting structure onto an existing patio is far more expensive than pouring for it the first time.

Process

  1. 1

    On-site visit (about 45 minutes, free)

    We measure the space, look at the soil and the existing grade, check how water moves across the area, and talk through finish options. You'll get a written scope and an honest budget range within a few days.
  2. 2

    Design & finish selection

    Size, shape, thickness, and finish confirmed — broom, stamped, stained, or exposed aggregate. Color and pattern chosen against your home's exterior. Joint layout planned before anything is poured.
  3. 3

    Excavation & sub-base

    We excavate to depth and build a compacted, well-draining base — the single most important step on Houston clay. The base is graded to a drainage fall away from the house before any concrete is ordered.
  4. 4

    Forming & reinforcement

    Forms set to the planned slope and elevation, isolation joints placed against the house and fixed structures, and steel reinforcement or fiber added per the slab's thickness and use.
  5. 5

    Pour & finish

    Concrete placed, screeded, and floated to the spec finish. Broom for grip, stamped while plastic for texture, or troweled smooth for stain. Control joints cut at the correct spacing and timing.
  6. 6

    Cure, seal & walk-through

    Slab cured properly — rushed curing is where surface strength is lost. Decorative finishes sealed. You inspect with the PM and sign off on the finished surface, joints, and slope.

Timeline & Investment

  • Standard broom-finish patio slab
    1 to 2 weeks
    $5,000 to $12,000
  • Decorative (stamped, stained, or exposed aggregate)
    2 to 3 weeks
    $9,000 to $20,000

Roughly $8 to $25per square foot depending on finish, thickness, and base prep. We give you a real number after we measure the space — and we don’t win bids by cutting the base prep that keeps the slab from cracking.

For the technical homeowner

The standards our crews work to on every slab — the prep and detailing that separate a flat patio from a cracked one.

Standards we hold our crews to on concrete

Sub-base & soil prep

  • Excavated to depth and built up with a compacted, well-draining granular base
  • Base compacted in lifts — not a single dumped layer — so it can’t settle unevenly under the slab
  • Base graded to the finished drainage slope before concrete is ordered

Slab & reinforcement

  • Slab thickness set to use — thicker where vehicles, covers, or kitchens will load it
  • Steel mesh or rebar on chairs (held up off the base, not laid on the ground), or fiber reinforcement where specified
  • Specified concrete mix and strength — no watering down the mix for an easier pour

Joints

  • Control joints cut to roughly 2.5× the slab thickness in feet, and cut early before uncontrolled cracking starts
  • Isolation joints separating the patio from the house slab and any fixed structure so they move independently
  • Joint layout planned to the patio’s shape, not improvised after the pour

Slope, cure & seal

  • A deliberate fall away from the house — surface drains, never ponds against the foundation
  • Proper moist or membrane cure — rushed curing is where surface strength and durability are lost
  • Decorative finishes sealed, with the re-seal interval explained up front

Sign-off

  • Project complete only when you sign off on the surface, joints, and slope — not when we’re tired

Frequently asked questions

How much does a concrete patio cost in Houston?
A standard broom-finish patio slab runs $5,000 to $12,000 depending on size. A decorative finish — stamped, stained, or exposed aggregate — runs $9,000 to $20,000. As a per-foot check, expect roughly $8 to $25 per square foot depending on finish, thickness, and how much base prep and reinforcement the soil calls for. We give you a real number after measuring the space.
Why do concrete patios crack in Houston?
Almost always because the base prep was skipped. Houston's expansive clay swells when wet and shrinks when dry, and a slab poured straight onto unprepared clay rides that movement until it cracks. The fixes are in the prep, not the pour: a compacted, well-draining sub-base, the right slab thickness, steel or fiber reinforcement, and control joints cut at the correct spacing so the concrete cracks where you want it to, not where it wants to. Skip those and price drops — so does the life of the slab.
What are control and expansion joints, and do I need them?
Concrete is going to move and it's going to crack — joints decide where. Control joints are cut into the slab at planned intervals so shrinkage cracking happens in a straight, hidden line instead of randomly across the surface. Expansion (isolation) joints separate the patio from the house slab and other fixed structures so the two can move independently without pushing on each other. Every slab we pour gets both, spaced to the slab's thickness. A patio with no joints isn't cheaper, it's just one that will crack on its own schedule.
Does a patio need to slope for drainage?
Yes — a flat patio ponds water, and standing water on concrete means staining, freeze-thaw spalling, and water driven back toward your foundation. We pour a slight, deliberate fall away from the house so the surface sheds. On lots that already struggle with standing water, we coordinate the patio with the rest of the yard's drainage so the slab is part of the solution, not a new dam.
Can you match a stamped or stained patio to my house?
Yes. Stamped concrete is textured and colored while it's wet to imitate stone, brick, or wood plank; stained concrete uses acid or water-based stains for a mottled, variegated color on a smooth or broom surface. We choose pattern and color against your home's brick, stone, and trim, and seal decorative work so the color holds up under Houston sun and rain. Sealer gets refreshed periodically — we'll tell you the maintenance honestly before you choose the finish.
How long before I can use a new concrete patio?
You can walk on it within a day or two, but concrete keeps curing for weeks. We keep furniture and heavy loads off it for the first several days, and decorative sealer needs its own cure time before use. The slab reaches most of its strength in about a month. We'll give you the specific timeline for your finish at sign-off so the surface isn't stressed before it's ready.

Service areas

We pour patios across The Woodlands, Spring, Magnolia, Conroe, Montgomery, Tomball, Cypress, Sugar Land, Pearland, and the rest of greater Houston.

  • The Woodlands, TX
  • Magnolia, TX
  • Spring, TX
  • Conroe, TX
  • Montgomery, TX
  • Tomball, TX
  • Cypress, TX
  • Sugar Land, TX
  • Pearland, TX
  • Houston, TX

Related work

Covered Patios

Patio covers and pergolas built over the slab — sized and footed for the structure from the first pour.

Learn more →

Outdoor Kitchens

Built for Houston weather, on a slab poured thick enough to carry the cabinetry and appliances.

Learn more →

Drainage

French drains, catch basins, and regrading so the patio sheds water instead of trapping it against the house.

Learn more →

Schedule an on-site visit.

We'll measure the space, look at the soil and grade, and give you a written scope and a real number — base prep included, not bid out.

Get a free estimateCall 832-390-8685

Free in-home estimates in The Woodlands area. For projects outside that area, a travel fee applies.